Bună ziua! Discovering new places with a Romanian photographer

For quite some time, I sought greater depth in my photography. Beyond capturing beautiful landscapes at sunrise or sunset, photography is an art form capable of storytelling. When I had the opportunity to join Romanian photographer Vlad Dumitrescu, I knew this was an experience not to be missed.

The influence of traditional Romanian culture and Vlad’s devotion to his homeland are unmistakable in his work. His photographic technique, akin to that of the 'Old Masters', skillfully employs natural light to create a striking chiaroscuro effect, also known as low key. It’s a beautiful artistry.

During our journey, we primarily concentrated on the enduring traditional rural life in Romania's Brasov and Maramures provinces, which is gradually fading away and deserves to be documented while possible.

The Brasov region

The journey commenced in Brasov, an enchanting city located in the heart of Transylvania, famed for its picturesque streets, stunning medieval architecture, and surrounding mountainous landscape. Our extensive visit to this city with our family last year came highly recommended, along with Sibiu. For us, Brasov served merely as the starting point, as we ventured onward to explore two authentic villages in the region: Holbav and Poiana Marului. These villages are nestled high in the mountains of the Piatra Craiului massif, part of the Carpathian mountain range that spans across the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Poland, Ukraine, and Romania. Following a challenging ascent, one arrives at the scattered houses perched on the mountain slopes, positioned above the villages situated in the valley. The vistas from this elevation are absolutely breathtaking.

During our visit, we explored several authentic homes, complete with their residents, family-owned animals, thriving fruit trees, and surrounding cultivated land used to grow crops like potatoes, onions, and corn, all in pursuit of self-sufficiency. Cars are a rare sight due to dirt roads often being unsuitable for vehicles, and the absence of running water is a common challenge. There is an undeniable timeless quality to this lifestyle, characterized by a slow, relaxed pace where conversation flows freely and the rush of city life feels distant. Despite its idyllic description, living in such a way presents significant hardships which are evident on the faces of the residents. From this experience, I have learned not to judge from my own perspective. Never would the individuals I encountered consider exchanging their lives, deeply connected with nature, for the bustling city life that I lead.

Check out some of the photos I captured in the mountains near Brasov. Spring arrived late due to the chilly weather, with snow falling just a week before my trip. You can see these images in a larger format in my portfolio.

The Soul of Maramures

Following our time in Brasov, we journeyed to Maramures, nestled in the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains in northern Romania, a region celebrated for its vibrant culture and age-old traditions. Maramures is renowned for its wooden churches, many of which are designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It requires a drive of over six hours from Brasov.

In Maramures, I had the chance to connect closely with the local community. Vlad played a crucial role in this, as his efforts in forming relationships with the residents offered us access to unique experiences. I was particularly impressed by the welcoming and hospitable nature of the people. Unlike in the Netherlands, where strangers are often met with caution, the doors here were almost always open. At home, I often feel the need to apologize for an untidy house when unexpected visitors arrive, but this was not the case with the people we met. We were almost always made welcome, and sometimes I felt a bit embarrassed standing there with my luxurious Western lifestyle, attire, and expensive camera, in the homes of people lacking many things I take for granted.

A collection of images from Maramures:

I never left a visit without receiving prayers: wishes were sent for my safe journey home, for my health and that of my loved ones, especially our children. The people of Romania are predominantly very religious, possessing a steadfast faith in God and a sense of resignation to destiny, believing it is divinely intended. This profound faith was evident in the Easter celebrations I observed, both within Romanian Orthodox communities and the Ukrainian Orthodox community, which has a traditional presence in Romania near the Ukrainian border. The Easter Monday celebration with the Ukrainian community was particularly remarkable to me. The traditional attire worn by both the young and old was stunning, and the atmosphere was filled with cheer and warmth. I returned to my car with a memory card filled with beautiful images and a bag of traditionally painted eggs and Easter breads that were specially gifted to me. It is unbelievable that during the most significant religious event of the year, the bombing continued across the border in Ukraine.

A unique encounter with Ioana

On two occasions, we made the ascent to the hill where Ioana, aged 101, resides in her traditional Romanian abode. Approximately 50 years ago, the house was relocated from another location and reconstructed because Ioana and her husband desired a tranquil spot, distanced from the village, with ample land for farming. Nestled beautifully atop the mountain, Ioana continues to live there. At her remarkable age, Ioana belongs to the group of people who don't dwell in the past but instead grasp the essence of living meaningfully. It was delightful to meet her, and the experience was a highlight for me. Following an extensive final day of photography on Easter Monday, we found Ioana in the village upon our return, where she had attended Easter Mass. There she was, settled on the swing set at the guest house, gently swaying and softly singing songs. It served as a lovely conclusion to my photographic journey. To top it off, she even shared a beer with us!

We chose to join her on her journey back up. Every now and then, she would pause, sharing sayings from her early years. One of them was:

'"Heavy is it, climbing the hill.
Heavy is it, kissing the earth in time.
Heavy is it, leaving the hill behind.
With the ground you hold so dear."

Ioana's family is eager to move her down to the valley, where they can watch over her more easily, but Ioana steadfastly refuses. "On this hill," she declares, "I am closer to God."

An Unforgettable Journey

My photography journey to Brasov and Maramures was an experience I will never forget. It offered not just an opportunity to enhance my portfolio with distinctive images, but also a chance to learn from Vlad. His tireless quest for photogenic individuals and traditional houses enabled me to produce images that are both visually striking and capture the essence of rural life and humanity.

This journey has altered my perspective on photography, and certainly reshaped how I see the world and my role within it. It's not just about freezing a moment in time, but grasping the culture, history, people, and the narrative behind that moment. If you ever have the opportunity to explore these areas of Romania or embark on a photography journey with someone like Vlad, seize it. It's an experience that leaves a lasting impression, and is not easily forgotten.

La revedere!