Hello! Out and about with a Romanian photographer

For quite some time, I’d been looking to add more depth to my photography. After all, photography can be so much more than just capturing beautiful landscapes at sunrise or sunset; it’s also, above all, a way to tell stories. When I got the chance to tag along with the Romanian photographer Vlad Dumitrescu, I knew right away that this was an experience I didn’t want to miss.

Vlad’s passion for traditional Romanian culture and his love for his country are immediately evident in his work. In addition, he has a particular style of photography that you also see in the work of the “Old Masters”: working with available natural light to create a so-called chiaroscuro effect, also known in photography as “low key.” I think that’s beautiful.

During this trip, we focused primarily on the still-traditional Romanian rural life in the provinces of Brasov and Maramures. A way of life that is slowly disappearing—and that is why it is so worth documenting while we still can.

THE BRASOV REGION

The trip began in Brasov, a city in the heart of Transylvania, known for its charming streets, impressive medieval buildings, and the surrounding mountain scenery. We had already explored this city extensively with our family last year (along with Sibiu—highly recommended). For us, Brasov was merely a base, because from there we set out for two authentic villages in the area, Holbav and Poiana Marului, high in the mountains of the Piatra Craiului massif, part of the Carpathians, a mountain range that stretches across the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Poland, Ukraine, and Romania. After a challenging climb, you reach the houses scattered across the hillsides, situated above the villages in the valley. The views there are truly breathtaking.

We visited several authentic cottages there, meeting their residents, the animals in their yards, the fruit trees, and the surrounding land, which they cultivate to grow crops such as potatoes, onions, and corn in order to be self-sufficient. You hardly ever see cars there; the sandy paths are often unsuitable for them, and running water is often unavailable. There was something timeless about this life, which unfolds at a leisurely pace, where there’s room for a chat and the hectic pace of city life seems far away. But no matter how idyllic it may be described, it is, of course, a hard life, and that takes its toll on the residents. Nevertheless, I’ve learned not to judge based on my own perspective. The people I met would never trade their life in and with nature for my life in the city.

Below are a few photos I took in the mountains around Brasov. Spring started late there because it had been cold; it had even snowed the week before my visit. Some of the photos in my portfolio can be viewed in large format.

THE HEART OF MARAMURES

After Brasov, we continued on to Maramures, located in the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains in northern Romania, a region with a rich culture and centuries-old traditions. Maramures is also known for its wooden churches, many of which have been designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It’s a little over a six-hour drive from Brasov.

In Maramures, I had the chance to get close to the people. Vlad’s presence was undeniably important in this regard. He built relationships with the locals, which gave us access to special moments. What struck me was their friendliness and warm welcome. Doors were rarely kept closed, and hospitality is still highly valued here—so different from the Netherlands, where doors are opened with suspicion to strangers. And whereas back home in the Netherlands I apologize to unexpected visitors for a messy house, that’s simply not an issue with the people we visited. We were almost always welcome, and in fact, I was the one who sometimes felt a bit uncomfortable—because there I was, with my Western lifestyle characterized by luxury, my Western perspective, and my expensive camera, in the homes of people who lack virtually everything that I take for granted.

A compilation of footage from Maramures:

Without fail, I never left a visit without someone praying for me: they prayed for a safe journey home, for my health and that of my loved ones, and especially for that of our children. The people of Romania are, in fact, overwhelmingly deeply religious, with an unshakable faith in God and an acceptance of the course of events because He has willed it so. This deep-rooted faith was also evident in the Easter celebrations I attended, both among Romanian Orthodox congregations and the Ukrainian Orthodox community, which has historically been present in Romania, less than ten kilometers from the Ukrainian border. I found the Ukrainian community’s Easter celebration on Easter Monday particularly impressive. The special traditional clothing worn by both the old and the young is simply stunning. Everyone was cheerful and exuberant, and the people were incredibly warm toward me. I returned to the car with a memory card full of beautiful images and a bag full of traditionally painted eggs and Easter breads, which they had come to bring to me especially. It’s unbelievable that the bombing of Ukraine continued unabated on the other side of the border during the most important religious event of the year.

A SPECIAL ENCOUNTER WITH IOANA

We climbed the hill twice to visit Ioana, who is 101 years old and lives in her traditional Romanian house. The house was moved there from another location about fifty years ago and rebuilt because Ioana and her husband were looking for a quieter place, away from the village and with land to farm. It’s in a beautiful location, up there on top of the mountain, and she still lives there. Ioana is one of those people who, at this age, doesn’t dwell on the past but still knows how to embrace life. I enjoyed my encounters with her the most. After a long final day of photography on Easter Monday, we found Ioana back down in the village when we returned; she had attended Easter Mass that day. There she was, sitting on the swing bench by the guesthouse, gently swaying and humming songs. It was a truly beautiful way to end my photography trip. She even had a beer with us!

We decided to accompany her on her climb back up. Every now and then she would stop and recite sayings from her childhood. One went like this:

“It is hard to climb the hill.
It is hard to kiss the earth in time.
It is hard to leave the hill behind.
With the ground that is so dear to you.”

Her family is making every effort to get Ioana to move down the hill, closer to them, so they can keep a closer eye on her. But Ioana refuses. “Here on the hill,” she says, “I’m closer to God.”

A TRIP YOU'LL NEVER FORGET

My photography trip to Brasov and Maramures was an unforgettable experience. It wasn’t just an opportunity to expand my portfolio with unique images, but also a chance to learn from Vlad. Thanks to his relentless search for photogenic people and traditional houses, I was able to capture images that are not only visually powerful but also reflect the deeper layers of rural life and the human condition.

This journey has changed my perspective on photography, but certainly also my perspective on the world and my own place in it. It’s not just about capturing a moment, but about understanding the culture, the history, the people, and the stories behind that moment. If you ever get the chance to visit these regions of Romania—or to set out on a journey with a photographer like Vlad—don’t miss it. It’s an experience you won’t soon forget.

Goodbye!